Karen and I woke up around 5:45am on the train northbound from Delhi to Hardwar expecting that our stop would be coming according to the schedule. This being our first train ride in India, me ever, and for her a long time, we were ignorant to the fact that trains are NEVER on time in India. It was probably closer to 8am when the train made its actual stop in Hardwar where we immediately hopped off and headed to the bus station to find our bus leaving for Rishikesh just as we arrived, perfect timing after all!
Upon our arrival we had to walk across the Ganges River on a pedestrian only bridge (not big enough for vehicles larger than a motor bike. We found a room to share at 400 Rps / night. It had an excellent view being directly on the river.
Once settled I set off to search for a place where I could practice yoga for a week, at least that is the length of time I was expecting to spend there. I wanted to put myself into a personally-driven week-long intensive yoga boot-camp. I did not find one that seemed to meet what I was looking for on this venture out.
Rishikesh is a town that borders the Ganges. On the pedestrian only side of the river there are shops, restaurants, guest houses, temples, yoga centers and some private residences, that is about it, all sandwiched between the foothills of the Himalayas and the River. Little tributaries flow throw various parts of the village from the mountains into the river. There are two bridges, one at either end of the pedestrian only side. We walked downstream towards the second bridge, stopping to buy a couple of cotton, multi-coloured yoga mats along the way. A little further down the way we reach the site where the daily Puja‘s are held (daily prayers, typically done around 6am and then 6pm).
The next morning we set out to find a new place to stay as the current place was too expensive for Karen. We found a guest house a little further upstream that was 150Rps / night. A steal! It wasn’t luxurious by any means, but it had everything you needed; squatting toilet, ceiling fan and cold water showers. We liked what we found, and now I really needed to find a place to do some yoga. We went to one place that was a little off the road and waited forever to meet with the teacher, he came out and wasn’t very receptive. His deal was different. He was looking for people to commit to staying at his place and practice/study the yogic life philosophies more so than just asanas (postures). It was awkward and it wasn’t what we were looking for. On the way back we saw a sign for another spot, so we went to check it out.
The classes were held on the roof of a guest house; the roof was actually the second floor that was never completed, so it still had concrete pillars and re-bar extending up into the open sky. The teacher did not live there and only rented the space to hold his practices He was not there at that time, so we started walking back. As we were heading down to the main road a small, old Indian man on a scooter wearing all white, with a white bandana and a white beard came riding towards us and stopped. He says, “Ah ha! I’ve found you!” I laughed. He was very funny, confident and enthusiastic. He was our teacher, he was Swamiji, or as he pronounced it “Som-ji”. He held classes everyday by donation on top of the guest house at 8am and 5pm, with breathing and meditation following the second practice at 6:45pm.
Karen was an Israeli who I met on the flight from Bangkok to Delhi. She was just starting her trip while I was on going into the final 2 of 6 months of my trip, I spent the past 4 months in SE Asia. She was a yoga teacher for kids as well as a school teacher back in Israel, but did not seem to be working at the time she left for her trip. She did not go into too much details about her life back home, I always felt she was kind of traveling to get away from something; a break-up, a lay-off, family issues, etc. I never did find out.
My yoga intensive had begun. Swamiji talked a lot. The practice and postures itself were excruciatingly (at least it felt that way in the beginning) fragmented with various talks and stories by him. He would tell us stories from the Bhagavad Gita and other stories from the Hindu Religion, which at times were interesting. But in the middle of a practice to just stop and sit there while he talked did not feel efficient at all. But in retrospect it kind of seemed like a lesson of patience all on it’s own. The exercises and postures were intense and jolting with a lot of bouncing. Very different from what I experience now. But it felt effective. He would push and pull our bodies in all directions trying to improve out flexibility. At times it was very painful. He are some shot of me fairly early on in my practice with Swamiji:
So for the next 14 days in a row, my schedule was more or less like this:
- wake-up 7:00am, pound as much water as possible, brush teeth and apply a Tiger Balm-like cream to my low back and hamstrings to get them pre-heated for the class. After about the 2nd or 3rd day my body was breaking down a bit. The consistent stretching definitely took it’s toll. Felt very similar to DOMS (Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness)
- walk to class for 8:00am. I cherished the walks because they too acted as a warm-up before we started class. It wasn’t until about the 8th day when the soreness began to subside and I did not need to apply any cream. Here is a video of us doing a part of our warm-up (like I said, it was very different):
- 8:00am – 9:30am we practiced yoga
- 10:00am I would go to “my” juice stand guy and get a freshly squeezed glass of pomegranate juice. It was like a super coffee in terms of the energy I got from it!
- I would walk further up stream after my juice to a place on the river where westerners were permitted to enter the river. Western men were allowed to enter anywhere, but Western women were not if they wanted to just wear a bathing suit. I would go into the cold water to literally ice my body down after practice. It felt just like an ice-bath during two-a-days at football training camp. It literally gave me my legs back and reduced inflammation every where.
- I’d head back to the guest house and have brunch; typically a big bowl of granola, fruit, yogurt and honey. I loved this meal so much. It felt very nourishing and cleansing, usually because I was starving at this point.
- I would spend the early afternoon doing random things: internet/email, reading, writing, exploring the town, napping. I always had to get in a nap before the next class.
- 4:30pm I would re-apply the tiger-balm and get myself ready for the afternoon/evening class. I’d pound water and have some sort of fruit before class.
- 5pm yoga class #2. Typically this class was always much better than the first. My body was already opened up from the morning class and I would see drastic increases in my flexibility in this session. It was unbelievable the differences. He are some shots of me later on near the end of my time there, you can see the improvements:
- 6:45am Breathing and meditation. This was a excellent learning experience for me. It was an introduction into various Pranayama techniques and meditation. I definitely had some interesting personal experiences while meditating. Sometimes it was easy to relax and just Be, other times it was more of a struggle. I remember one such time when a couple days prior my meditation sessions were jagged and challenging, but on this evening I felt very still, very connected and grounded, and any other analogy people use to try and describe a positive meditative experience. And afterwards Swamiji looked at me and said, “Was that better?” I nodded and said, “yes.” I was surprised when he said that. It was like he had some how aided in my experience or sent some sort of positive intentions my way during that session. He taught us to focus inwardly at our 3rd eye and just watch our thoughts as they rolled by, just observe them. Eventually they would slow down and have space between them, spaces of thoughtlessness and conscious presence. At first this was very difficult and frustrating. My thoughts never seemed to stop. They seemed useless, here I was trying to stop them from happening and they would not stop. It was a moment of realization for me, I had never just tried to watch the thoughts and try to get them to stop. “Why would they not just stop?” I remember asking myself this. But with practice, they did begin to slow down. And I would notice spaces between them. But typically as soon as that would happen and I would realize it, I would think, “yes, they’ve stopped!” Then I think, “Damn, I just thought that, and that was a thought” and the thoughts would be off and running again. But like anything, if you practice it you can improve and this was exactly the case with this sort of meditation technique.
**Here is a clip from a part of a story he was telling during one of the meditation sessions. I wish I did not cut off the video when I did, in retrospect, it sounds like a pretty interesting story about the abuse of power / being careful what you wish for. But overall I think it was explaining through metaphor that what you sow is what you reap. One of the many universal laws explained through stories in many religions, this one being Hindu.**
- some nights we would also do the Netty pot, a nasal canal cleansing techinique where water goes in one nostril and out the other:
- after the meditation I would go for a bountiful and nourishing Northern Indian dinner usually of Special Thali. I loved this meal so much. It was always cheap, freshly made and absolutely delicious.
- Dinner would normally be done by 9 or 9:30pm, I would have yet another cold shower, or sometimes pay 20 Rps to have a bucket of water heated for me to have a hot water shower, which were savoured like the last few drops of water given to a person in a desert. I would then either chat with other travelers at the guest house for a bit, read or write and go to bed. I was always so exhausted. Before long the alarm would go on my wrist watch and it was type to lather, rinse and REPEAT.
14 days straight! It was more than double the time I was initially intending to do. I loved the routine. It felt great to just stay put in one place for an extended period of time after being on the move for 4 months. It was nice to unpack my bag and have a daily routine.
I loved my Swami. During my time with him we became very close. He always just called me “Canada”. I can still hear him now as he would comment during my practice, “Good, Canada.” I grew to love his stories. I loved his practice, as torturous and unorthodox as they were they worked. My flexibility reached all-time new heights. I had never been that open before, and to this day, 4 years later I have never regressed to where I was before those 14 days. And he also introduced me to at least one type of meditation technique that definitely helped me see things a little different introspectively. We had a teary-eyed goodbye. He gave me a copy of the Bhagavad Gita with a picture of him inside and a message. We took a few pictures together and said farewell. I told him I would be back one day. And I know I will, I just hope that when I walk to that half-completed guest house I still find it half complete and there he is on top of the second floor, blankets laid out on the concrete waiting for whoever would show up. It was this intensive training 2-weeks, done more or less on a whim, that really got me started into yoga. It has now become a huge part of my daily life and I have learned much about myself, others and I feel it has enhanced my life immeasurably. For that I am grateful.
Here are some random shots from the rest of my time in Rishikesh, the self-proclaimed world capital of yoga. If you ever get the chance to visit, I highly recommend doing so.
Thanks for reading.































